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Uncle Zhou Reports from New York Times

"Uncle Zhou’s noodles take a star turn atop the Henan classic of baked noodles and fish (generally tilapia, $16.95, or bluefish, $19.95). A whole fish, gently fried, is shrouded in bei mian — in essence, hand-pulled baked angel hair — and set in a sweet-and-sour pool. The crisp bei mian contrasts beautifully with the tender fish. Both soak up the sauce."

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